This was the perfect location for us, in the heart of historic Havana, walking distance to beautiful plazas, museums, and cafes. Our hostess for five nights, Magaly Lopez, was charmingly gracious, eager to meet all our needs and help us understand her Cuban life. Don't pre-judge her hospitality by the stark, unmarked apartment entrance and row of rusty mail boxes. Once past three locked doors, you enter her bright, spotless dwelling which includes a small kitchen, cheerful living room, two bedrooms and two bathrooms. Wrought iron balconies perch above the narrow street below where children bustle to school, bicycle taxis dodge food carts and wandering dogs, tourists from around the world saunter to Plaza Vieja for a classic mojito and live music. Each morning, we enjoyed a lovingly prepared breakfast starting with freshly brewed Cuban coffee and guava juice, an overflowing bowl of chopped fruit, crepes or French toast, thin eggplant slices topped with shredded vegetables and melted cheese, plus a wrapped sandwich for later in the day. When we returned from a day of exploring, we found our bedroom beautifully tidied, and even clean sheets after only a couple nights. We didn't have anything with which to compare this "Casa Particular" (private home), but another couple renting the second bedroom raved that her beds were, by far, the best they'd had in their Cuban travels including silk-like sheets. The day we arrived, two German college students were tearfully saying goodbye to Magaly, wishing they could stay longer with their new, dear friend. They had only been there one night. By the time we left, we, too, felt our heartstrings pulled by this wonderful woman. We hope to see her again someday.